Anticipating Fez- Expectations and Allure of A Vibrant Herbal Heritage
- victoria ward
- Oct 30, 2025
- 4 min read
My next herbal route takes me to Fez, Morocco in search of living heritage. What delights await me? I anticipate rich, earthy colours, enticing exotic scents and enchanting rituals preserved between the walls of the medieval medina, echoes of the past flowing through every labyrinthine alleyway. Join me on every herbal time-travellers dream expedition.
Morocco's Great Imperial City
Fez sits in the lush Middle Atlas region in Morocco, established in 789 by a grandson of the prophet Mohammed Idris I, it is a rare example of a living medieval city. The old town, Fes el-Bali consists of 9,700 serpentine alleys flanked by high walls behind which are hidden wonders of intricate architecture and serene, green oases.
This enchanting city is considered to be the cultural and spiritual heart of Morocco, I am expecting perhaps a deeper, less altered city than Marrakesh which I felt had changed significantly since my first visit thirty years ago.
A theme of scholarly endeavours, intellectualism and deep spiritual devotion is embedded in this city, the world's first university was founded here in 859. 'Al Quaraouiyine' is a remarkable testament to the value of education here, a great university and mosque, built by Fatima al-Fihri using inheritance left from her father.
Brief History of Herbalism In Fez
The herbal tapestry of Fez is woven from many strands of ethnic diversities and their legacy on the development of medicine in the region. Not only a diversity of people which includes Berber, Jews, Arab and Andalucian folk, but also the potential of the land itself. The Fez-Meknes region is ranked as one of the most productive agricultural regions of Morocco (1)
The coming of Islam developed medicinal practices significantly and in the sixteenth century the physcian al-Wazir al Ghassani provided a pharmacopeia 'The Garden of Blossoms' which included many monographs of medicinal plants. You can find some translations provided by Miriam Hicklin of 'Atlas Apothecary' here.
Women were the primary household practitioners, translating 'high-minded' Galenic medicine into traditional pharmacy to care for their families. The practices of these matriarchal medics fascinated the colonising french who investigated their intriguing ways and wrote books at the beginning of the twentieth century including 'Practiques des harems marocains' and 'Essai de folklore marocain'. For further reference please see 'Head of a Serpent, a Pinch of Rue' (Amster, 2022).
The combined effect of these diverse cultural influences and the ability to cultivate aromatic and medicinal plants has left the Moroccan population as a whole with a "rich and ancient tradition in phytotherapy" herbs and the practice of herbalism is deeply integrated into their culture (1)
For the herbal time-traveller wishing to witness herbal practices 'alive and kicking', prominent and relevant, yet still honouring and preserving ancient traditions passed down through many generations, I believe Fez will be a great destination.
Herbal Highlights On My Itinerary
Souk Al-Attarine
Souk Al-Attarine is the name given to spice and perfume markets found in many ancient markets including Tunis. Traditionally dedicated to spices and perfumes, many have now diversified into selling a range of products.
In Fez, the Souk Al-Attarine is located near the Al-Attarine Madrasa which I believe translates as the 'Madrasa of the perfumers', Attarine being a derivation of attar meaning a fragrant, essential oil.
Henna Souk
Not too far from the Souk El-Attarine, I hope to find the Henna Souk which dates back to the 16th century. Here are to be found cosmetic herbalists selling hammam products including Rhassoul which is a cosmetic clay mined from the Atlas mountains and combined with herbal infusions. This sounds blissful and I will research this further during my visit.
Another important source of valuable insights into herbalism in Fez, has been the afore-mentoned Miriam Hicklin .please check out her beautiful website 'Atlas Apothecary' to learn more about her work and passions.
I gleaned from her evocative love-letter to the Henna Souk some interesting musings about the Henna Souk's proximity to a now demolished hospital and the connections with self-care rituals, often overlooked in their power to nuture and promote healing.
Maristan of Sidi Frej was a 13th century hospital, originally specialising in four areas of medicine, it eventually becoming devoted to the treatment of the mentally ill. The hospital treatments incuded medicinal plants and aromatherapy and although the original building has been destroyed, herbal stores still exist in the relatively peaceful area which has a lovely square and provides greener space compared with other parts of the hectic medina.
A visit to this beautiful part of the medina will add to my story-collecting about the development of medicine in Fez and how herbal medicine has always been valued here. Please check out this facebook page 'Friends of Henna Souk, Fes'
Distillation
During my trip I am looking forward to a distillation workshop kindly organised by Timeless Fez, this wonderful agency offers immersions into authentic, cultural experiences for those who wish to delve a little deeper. Their offerings traverse the rich artisanal and cultural landscape of Fez, including cooking classes, musical delights and spiritual insights. This approach resonates deeply with my view that travel should give benefits to both host and visitor, and that these should support endangered heritage, protect unique ecology and cultural diversity.
Here is their latest post-
Travel with me on this quest to showcase the herbal knowledge and artistry that lies ahead in this great, imperial city. My research has left me quite mesmerized, the sources I have uncovered share an infectious passion for this city, my wish is that following my herbal journey will do the same for you.
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