Transformative Travel: A Journey Through Fes
- victoria ward
- Nov 16, 2025
- 8 min read
Transformative travel describes experiences that promote personal growth, accumulate knowledge, and shape beliefs. It is often said that travel to certain places, particularly those steeped in deep spirituality, stays with us long after the journey ends. Transformative travel is mindful and purposeful. It aims to take us beyond the superficial, allowing for deep emotional and spiritual connections with the essence of a place. This may seem like a lofty expectation. Can transformative travel truly recalibrate us in some way? As this researcher suggests, it can foster radical change. (Ross, 2010)
What better way to explore the concept of transformative travel than during a cultural immersion organised by TimelessFez in the heart of the old medina, Fes?
Fes: A Huge City with a Village Feel
The day of the much-anticipated 'Natural Herbs Traditional Distillation Workshop' organised by Timeless Fez was only my second day in Fes. My first impressions of this city were just beginning to form as I left the house and navigated my way through the tiniest of alleyways. Initially, these serpentine paths were barely wide enough to squeeze through. However, they eventually opened up, leading to one of the medina's main streets, Tala Kebira.
An approaching figure, dressed in a traditional djellaba, greeted me warmly. This was to be my guide for the day, the delightful Zahra. This enthusiastic young lady was chosen for the workshop due to her family connections with Fes's herbal traditions. Zahra was a comforting presence in a strange place.
We had arranged to meet early when the medina alleys were relatively quiet. As the day unfolded, these alleys began to shrink, becoming almost overloaded with locals, donkeys, and hot tourists all jostling together in a magnificent melee.
Safely in the hands of a local, my fears of becoming lost soon dissipated. I was free to enjoy the journey, taking us deeper into the otherworldliness of the souks of Fes.
What is striking about a city the size of Fes (1.25 million inhabitants) is how friendly and engaging the people are. Zahra greeted many along the way—several family members and countless friends. This vast city felt like a much smaller community.
A relaxed walk towards Souk al Attarine, chattering away with Zahra, eventually halted at an old herbal shop deep in the medina named Mounir Hamda Benchekroun.
The Herbal Shop: A Treasure Trove of Nature
There are many herboristes in the medina, each boasting colourful, sensual displays of dried herbs, oils, and incense. However, after a while, your eyes begin to skip over the repeated offerings. Souk al Attarine does have many authentic herbal shops. Please see my previous post Anticipating Fez- Expectations and Allure of A Vibrant Herbal Heritage for more insights.
As a herbalist, I never tire of herbal shops, but this one was something special. It was chosen for its unique heritage and cultural standing in this great medina. I may never have found this gem unguided. This is what Timeless Fez does beautifully—they help travellers experience authenticity in a climate of increasing fakery. Would you believe that some stalls in Morocco sell Chinese-produced rosewater?
Floor-to-ceiling stacks of herbs filled the shop, packed with every potion and concoction imaginable—and some you probably cannot even imagine. This ancient shop has served the local folk for years, retaining many generations of knowledge and wisdom within its walls.
The picture below shows a herbalist dispensing herbs to a local. This shop was a far cry from many others I had seen; here, herbal heritage was alive and serving the community.
The Warmest Welcome: A Family Tradition
The distillation was to be demonstrated in a traditional house in the medina, home to Rachid and his sister Amina. Herbal distillation formed part of their heritage, which they proudly continue, producing wonderful floral waters just as generations before them had done.
Up the stairs we went to witness the setup of the distillation equipment. We discussed a selection of herbs and sampled floral waters. Zahra conveyed questions and interpreted between us, ensuring we were involved with every step and understood the intricacies of this fine, artisanal craft.
As the setup was skillfully completed, we examined different herbs that might be distilled as the season dictated. We discussed the merits and applications of Pennyroyal, Chamomile, and Zaatar. The smell of Zaatar distillate was incredible—one I had never encountered before. Even a herbalist with over thirty years of experience never stops learning.
Zaatar, in this case, refers to Oreganum syriacum, a wild species found in Levant regions and a key ingredient in the spice mix also named Zaatar. Wild Zaatar is highly aromatic and boasts many health and cosmetic benefits, including:
Gut health and digestive benefits
Oral health
Promotes skin health due to antibacterial action
With the equipment now carefully assembled, the rosebuds were added to the water. As fresh roses were out of season, dried rosebuds were chosen, as they remain closed, thus retaining more aromatic compounds. The stage was now set for the transformation to begin, extracting the essence of these lovely flowers.
As the distillation process is fairly lengthy, requiring frequent top-ups of cold water, we ventured back down the stairs for mint tea and sweet treats.
Shared Experience: The Magic of Transformation
Once the magic began, we all eagerly returned to see the first bottle fill with rosewater. The scent filled the space, as uplifting as the shared excitement. The transformation unfolded, with rosebuds surrendering their aromatic compounds to the hot water. Finally, we had several bottles of rosewater, distilled with wisdom and care, ready for medicinal, cosmetic, and culinary uses.
Uses of Rosewater
Medicinal use, such as a compress for fever
Cosmetic use as a toner
Cooking as a flavouring
Transformative Travel: A Deeper Connection
Since the creation of my website, I have pondered many terms that describe travel experiences and what they can mean to the recipient. There is 'conventional tourism' and, in contrast, 'alternative tourism'. Transformative or transformational travel fits into the alternative model, going beyond the holiday of relaxing on a beach, where there is little cultural interaction. Instead, it often involves spending time in a resort designed specifically for tourists.
The concept is not new. A 2022 literature review reminds us of Victorian England and the popularity of the 'Grand Tour,' where self-improvement was considered a gain. The concept has been explored by many scholars since the seventeenth century when reflective travel accounts became popular reading. Ross (2010) suggests that transformative travel can
“honour the delicate interplay between the self and anyone who is different or the ‘other’ during the travel.”
During my recent travels to several popular tourist destinations, I have observed how crowded they are becoming. Selfie-takers jostle for the best spot to capture that perfect Instagram shot. Beautiful places become mere backgrounds in which to frame oneself.
Tourism clearly changes places and can be a double-edged sword, as evident from Spain's recent discontent. Transformative travel offers a sustainable model, preserving heritage and protecting cultural identity. Travellers should not expect countries to change to accommodate tourists but should choose to travel mindfully, supporting chosen destinations to retain their unique essence.
The Benefits of Transformative Travel: More Than Just a Workshop
Arranging an immersive experience, such as my distillation workshop, is intentional for the traveller. They seek knowledge and indulge in an interest with expectations of the benefits they hope to receive. Likewise, the hosts have expectations of the rewards of their participation.
Far more intriguing are the less tangible rewards—those that cannot be anticipated but can only be felt experientially during the process. Are these where the seeds of transformation are sown?
I already knew something about herbal distillation and what to expect in terms of the process, but I could not imagine what unexpected rewards I might find. These came in the shape of gratitude for the effort put into creating the experience by both organisers and hosts. The hospitality of the hosts, the joy of bonding, and sharing a creative process with others were delightful. The energies combined, invested in a great outcome.
This workshop provided insight into life in Fes, a valuable interaction with the community. Sampling the floral waters and the essence of the place simultaneously was a unique experience. The essence of place, or 'genius loci,' refers to those qualities that give a place its unique character. I gained insight into the spirit of the people framed in a cultural and historical context. The workshop left me with a very positive feeling about Fes and its people. Lokas (2023) discusses the concept of genius loci:
The essence of a place lies in the perceptions and experiences of its inhabitants, rather than its physical structures and historical artifacts.
Snapshots of famous structures are all well and good, but connecting with people leaves a deeper imprint. Sharing heritage requires an opening of the heart, where our pride and memories reside. I imagine the rewards for the hosts include finding people interested in their particular heritage and artisanal skill. Participants give value to what matters to them and are willing to invest in the continuation of endangered heritage.
Often, language barriers cut interactions short. However, when we engage in mutual interests and share creative tasks, we transcend any limitations. Herbs are unifiers, and we all have herbal heritage to share.
For me, this workshop proved to be a real heart-opener and deep immersion into the essence of Fes. I left with lovely memories, a litre of rosewater, and, perhaps most importantly, very positive feelings about our world and its people. Believe me, that is quite a transformation for someone like me.
Much Gratitude: A Heartfelt Thanks
Many thanks to Mohamed, Zahra, and all at Timeless Fez for coordinating this workshop with such great attention to detail and good judgement. Special thanks to Rachid and Amina for warmly welcoming us into their home and sharing with Nomadic Herbalist their precious herbal heritage.
Conclusion: Embracing the Journey
In conclusion, transformative travel is not just about visiting new places; it is about connecting with the essence of those places and the people who inhabit them. Each experience enriches us, offering insights that linger long after we return home. As we explore the world, let us remember to embrace the journey, cherish the connections we make, and allow ourselves to be transformed by the experiences we encounter.
An Immersive Herbal Tour Of Morocco - A Nomadic Herbalist & Timeless Fez Collaboration
Next spring, Nomadic Herbalist in conjunction with Timesless Fez will be hosting a unique Herbal Immersion aimed at those seeking slow, meaningful travel experiences that take them far beyond the usual tourist routes to get a rare glimpse into Morocco's thriving herbal heritage.
'Root & Remedies' is a four- day guided exploration to discover the medicinal plants of the Middle Atlas Mountains. This is a rare insight into foraging practices which are seldom seen and an opportunity to learn about Morocco's native herbs. The tour traces this ancient process from root to remedies, from the collection of raw plant material through to the finished products sold in the souks such as medicines in Souk Attarine and cosmetics in the Henna Souk.
Take part in the transformative processes of distillation and soap-making during hands-on workshops and begin with a guided, meditative sensory introduction to some key herbs.
Herbal tourism is a growing niche in sustainable, nature-based transformative travel which keeps traditions alive, preserving herbal heritage and supporting rural economies to continue foraging herbs.
It is important to give value to the wild landscapes of Morocco and preserve what grows there, alongisde this it is equally important to preserve the knowledge and wisdom of the foragers and those who transform raw herbal material into useful products. These are the people who speak to the plants and translate to the people, the alchemists and weavers of magic.
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