Transformative Travel- Distilling the Essence of Place
- victoria ward
- Nov 16, 2025
- 7 min read
Transformative travel describes travel experiences that promote personal growth, accumulate knowledge and shape beliefs. Often it is said that travel to certain places, particularly those connected with deep spirituality, remains with the individual far beyond the duration of the physical journey. Transformative travel is mindful and purposeful, aiming to take us beyond the superficial, allowing deep emotional and spiritual connection with the essence of a place. This may seem a high-minded and ambitious expectation, can transformative travel really recalibrate us in some way, and as this researcher suggests, foster radical change? (Ross, 2010)
What better way to explore the concept of transformative travel than during a cultural immersion organised by TimelessFez in the heart of the old medina, Fes.
Fes- A Huge City With A Village Feel
The day of the much anticipated 'Natural Herbs Traditional Distillation Workshop' organised by Timeless Fez was only my second spent in Fes. My first impressions of this city were just beginning to form as I left the house and negotiated my way through the tiniest of alleyways. Initially, barely wide enough to squeeze through, these serpentine paths eventually open out before you leading to one of the medina's main streets, Tala Kebira.
An approaching figure, dressed in a traditional djellaba, greeted me warmly, this was to be my guide for the day, the delightful Zahra. This enthusiastic young lady was selected for the workshop due to family connections with Fez's herbal traditions. Zahra was a comforting prescence in a strange place.
We had arranged to meet early when the medina alleys are relatively quiet. As days unfurl, the medina alleys appear to shrink, becoming full to almost overload with locals, donkeys and hot tourists all jostling together in the magnificent melee.
Safely in the hands of a local, my fears of becoming lost soon dissipated, I was free to enjoy the journey taking us deeper and deeper into the other-worldliness of the souks of Fes.
What is quite striking about a city the size of Fes (1.25 million inhabitants) is how freindly and engaging the people are. Zahra greeted many people along the way, several family members and countless other friends. This vast city had the feel of a much smaller community.
A relaxed walk towards Souk al Attarine chattering away with Zahra, eventually halted at an old herbal shop deep in the medina named Mounir Hamda Benchekroun,
The Herbal Shop
There are many herboristes in the medina, they all have colourful, sensual displays of dried herbs, oils and incense but eventually your eyes begin to skip over the repeated offerings they display. Souk al Attarine does however have many authentic herbal shops, please see my previous post Anticipating Fez- Expectations and Allure of A Vibrant Herbal Heritage
As a herbalist, I never tire of herbal shops, but this one was something else, chosen for its unique heritage and cultural standing in this great medina. I may never have found this gem unguided, this is what Timeless Fez does so beautifully in their mission to help the traveller experience authenticity in a climate of increasing fakery, would you believe for instance, that some stalls in Morocco are selling chinese-produced rosewater?
Floor to ceiling stacked with herbs, packed with every potion and concoction you can imagine and some you probably cannot, this ancient shop has been serving the local folk for years with many generations of knowledge and wisdom retained within its walls.
The picture below shows a herbalist dispensing herbs to a local, this shop was a far cry from many others I had seen, here herbal heritage was alive and serving the community.
The Warmest Welcome
The distillation was to be demonstrated in a traditional house in the medina and home of Rachid and his siter Amina. Herbal distillation formed part of their heritage which they proudly continue, together producing wonderful floral waters as had the generations preceding them.
Up the stairs we went to witness the set up of the distillation equipment, we discussed a selection of herbs and sampled floral waters. Zahra conveyed questions and interpreted between us ensuring we were involved with every step and understood the intricacies of fine, artisanal craft.
Whilst the set up was skillfully completed, we got to look at some different herbs that might be distilled as the season dictates. We discussed the merits and applications of Pennyroyal, Chamomile and Zaatar. The smell of Zaatar distillate was incredible, not one I had previously encountered- even a herbalist of over thirty years experience never stops learning.
Zaatar in this case refers to Oreganum syriacum which is a wild species found in Levant regions and key ingredient to the spice mix also named Zaatar. Wild Zaatar is highly aromatic and has many health and cosmetic benefits including-
Gut health and digestive benefits
Oral health
Promotes skin health due to antibacterial action
The equipment now carefully assembled, the rosebuds were added to the water. With fresh roses out of season, dried rosebuds were chosen as they remain closed thus retaining more aromatic compounds. The stage was now set for the transformation to begin and the extraction of the essence of these lovely flowers.
As the distillation process is fairly lengthy, requiring frequent top-ups of cold water, we ventured back down the stairs for mint tea and sweet treats.
Shared Experience
Once the magic began, we all eagerly returned to see the first bottle fill with rosewater. The scent now filling the space as uplifiting as the shared excitement as the transformation unfolded with rosebuds now surrendering their aromatic compounds to the hot water. Finally, we had several bottles of rosewater, distilled with wisdom and care that could be used medicinally, cosmetically and in cooking.
Uses of Rosewater
Medicinal use such as compress for fever
Cosmetic use as toner
Cooking as flavouring
Transformative Travel
Since the creation of my website, I have pondered many terms that describe travel experiences and what they can mean to the recipient, starting from the premise that there is 'conventional tourism' and, in contrast, 'alternative tourism'. Transformative or transformational travel fits into the alternative model, going beyond the holiday as relaxing on a beach where there is little cultural interaction, perhaps spending most of the time confined to a resort specifically designed for tourists.
The concept is not new, a 2022 literatue review reminds us of Victorian England and the popularity of the 'Grand Tour' where self-improvement was considered to be a gain. The concept has been explored by many scholars from as early as the seventeenth century when reflective travel accounts made for popular reading. Ross (2010) suggests that transformative travel [can]
“honour the delicate interplay between the self and anyone who is different or the ‘other’
during the travel”
During my recent travels to several popular tourist destinations, I have observed how crowded these are becoming. Selfie-takers jostle for the best spot to take that perfect instagram shot. Beautiful places are mere backgrounds in which to frame oneself.
Tourism clearly changes places and can be a double-edged sword as is evident from Spain's recent discontent. Transformative travel offers a sustainable model, preserving heritage and protecting cultural identity. Travellers should not expect countries to change to accomodate tourists, but choose to travel mindfully and support chosen destinations to retain their unique essence.
The Benefits of Transformative Travel
Arranging an immersive experience such as my distillation workshop is intentional for the traveller, they are seeking knowledge and indulging an interest with expections of the benefits they hope to recieve. Likewise the hosts will have expectations of the rewards of their participation.
Far more intriguing are the less tangible rewards, those that cannot be anticipated only felt experientially during the process, are these where the seeds of transformation are sewn?
I already know something of herbal distillation and what to expect in terms of the process, but I could not imagine what unexpected rewards I might find. These came in the shape of gratitute for the effort put into creating the experience by both organisers and hosts, the hospitallity of the hosts, the joy of bonding and sharing a creative process with others, the delight of energies combining together, invested in a great outcome.
This was a insight into homelife in Fes, a valuable interaction with community. Sampling the floral waters and the essence of the place simutaneously. The essence of place or 'genius loci' are those qualities that give place unique character, I gained an insight into the spirit of the people framed in a cultural and historical context. The workshop has imprinted on me a very positive feeling about Fes and its people. Lokas (2023) discusses the concept of genius loci -
the essence of a place lies in the perceptions and experiences of its inhabitants, rather than its physical structures and historical artifacts.
Snapshots of famous structures are all well and good, but connecting with people leaves a deeper imprint. Sharing heritage requires an opening of the heart which is where our pride and memories reside. Rewards for the hosts I imagine to be finding people interested in their particular heritage and artisanal skill, participants giving value to what matters to them and willing to invest in the continuation of endangered heritage.
Often language barriers cut interactions short but when we are engaged in mutual interests and sharing creative tasks, we transcend any limitations. Herbs are unifiers and we all have herbal heritage to share.
For myself, this workshop proved to be a real heart-opener and deep immersion into the essence of Fes. I was left with some lovely memories, a litre of rosewater and, perhaps most importantly, very positive feelings about our world and it's people. Believe me, that is quite a transformation for an old cynic like me.
Much Gratitude
Many thanks to Mohamed, Zahra and all at Timeless Fez for co-ordinating this workshop with such great attention to detail and good judgement. Special thanks to Rachid and Amina for warmly welcoming us into their home and sharing with Nomadic Herbalist their precious herbal heritage.
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